Scourie to Ullapool, Scotland

The next stage of our Scotland NC500 trip started with multiple rainbows stretching right the way over the bay at Scourie. A lovely way to start the next leg, even if it did mean it was raining somewhere near.

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Our morning double rainbow, Scourie, Scotland

Having packed our bedding away, we stopped briefly to refill the water in preparation for a few more days wild/freedom camping. We were a little sad to be leaving our lovely and simple campsite behind, but we were ready to be more isolated with the beauty of our surroundings. We were quickly greeted with some incredible mountains with peaks soaring towards the grey skies. The ancient and unspoilt landscape changed dramatically as the sun, wind and rain alternated their patterns across the rock faces.

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Just outside Newton, Scotland

Around almost every corner we were treated to another spectacular view. We were so pleased that we had decided to venture around the UK to see what the British Isles had to offer. We were never disappointed.

At several stages on this leg, we were forced to stop, jump out and just absorb the warm sunshine, the picturesque coastline and many small, uninhabited, islands within reaching distance of the coast.

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Chris stood on a rock looking at the North Sea

As carried on we arrived at a small village called Drumbeg. As we had slowly driven through the small village, we noticed there was a small village shop/café so decided to support the local economy and stock up on local supplies. We were greeted by a broad smile and a warm greeting. We decided to stock up on plenty of non-essentials as everything was either homemade or from within 20 or so miles from the shop. The shop was obviously the local social meeting point to as several couples were sharing tables and sipping coffees in the sunshine. It was a wonderful sight. Having been around the tiny store a few times, we were fully stocked up on smoked salmon, local cheese, home baked sausage rolls and bread. Sadly it was time once again to get on to the next treasure that northern Scotland had to offer.

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The View from the car park on the outskirts of Drumbeg, Scotland

As we had no idea where our overnight was going to be, we decided to try to find one of the lighthouses that I had read about, Stoer Head Lighthouse. The roads were quiet, narrow and winding through the countryside, we wondered if many others touring this area would have made the effort. A few miles from the lighthouse, we came across more horned cows just wandering around the fields and roads. The way they looked at us was ‘what you want me to move?’. They were incredibly unbothered by us.

As we came to the end of the road the lighthouse finally came into view. We quickly noticed that it was well kept with its white paint almost glowing in the afternoon sunlight. We jumped out, and quickly back in to wrap up warm… the sunshine was misleading, it was windy and a little chilly, but it did not ruin our walk around the building and surroundings. The sign suggested that you could arrange to have events and stay at the lighthouse. Sadly, there was no-one there so we couldn’t look around the building itself. Impressive nonetheless, and well worth the detour from the main route.

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Stoer Head Lighthouse, Stoer Head, Scotland

With Stoer Head behind us we headed back to the main route and headed south towards Loch Assynt. We had read that this whole area was pretty, but everywhere we had visited on this journey had been. However, Loch Assynt had another treat in store for us. Ardvreck Castle.

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Ardvreck Castle, Scotland

The castle was only a ruin, but you could clearly see some of the outlines of where the great building had been. What remained was incredibly photogenic, sadly the weather was not doing us any favours as the grey clouds rolled in. However, we still spent some time walking around the remnants, capturing a few shots, and admiring the stunning setting we found ourselves in. Picture cannot do this place justice, a must stop on this route.

After taking a plethora of pictures, we continued on towards Ullapool where we were planning to stay overnight.

Ullapool itself was a little drab in the dark grey of the early evening, however, having got last minute items for dinner, we headed out of town and found one of the freedom camping spots on our park4night app. It was perfect, surrounded by woodland, a little way back from the road and no electric lights visible. It was cold but perfect.

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Our camping spot just outside Ullapool, Scotland